Thursday, 28 January 2016

Technical File - Creating Dewy and Matte Sheer Skin

Health and Safety: 
Place apron around the neck to protect clothing. 
Always ensure to run a client consultation to check for any infections, allergies or contraindications.
Wash/Disinfect hands thoroughly before touching the clients skin.

Creating Sheer Dewy Skin
Products Used:
- Nivea 2 in 1 Cleansing Lotion (Sensitive)
- Olay Essentials Delicate Toner 
- Nivea Rich Day Moisturiser 
- Liquid Foundation 
- Mac Strobe Cream 
- Mac Full Coverage Foundation 
- Dermacolour Camouflage Makeup (Red Corrector) 
- Illamasqua Setting Powder
- Kryolan Highlight (Pale Tan & Natural Tan)

Process of Creation:
1. Ensure that all traces of makeup have been cleansed from the skin, paying particular attention to around the eyes whereby mascara/liner gets caught. 
2. Evaluate the skins needs e.g. dry/normal, oil/combination skin and choose the appropriate products. 
3. Model has dryer skin so apply a thicker layer of moisturiser onto the skin and allow to sink in for a few minutes. 
4. Once settled apply a mixture of a liquid foundation sheered out with Mac Strobe cream to the skin with a duo fibre brush, this will give a lighter coverage than a foundation or buffing brush. 
5. Go in with a small concealer brush and apply a red colour corrector to dark areas of the socket e.g. under the eye and inner crease. 
6. Taking a small duo fibre brush and a full coverage foundation (thiner than a concealer) apply this to any imperfections and finally over the top of the red colour corrector. 
7. Apply a translucent finishing powder lightly over the face avoiding the higher points of the face.
8. Taking a highlighter in a paler champagne tone apply this to the forehead, cheekbones, end of the nose, brow bone, cupids bow and chin. 

Creating Sheer Matte Skin
Products Used:
- Nivea 2 in 1 Cleansing Lotion (Sensitive)
- Olay Essentials Delicate Toner 
- Nivea Rich Day Moisturiser 
- Illamasqua Matte Primer 
- Liquid Foundation 
- Mac Full Coverage Foundation 
- Dermacolour Camouflage Makeup (Red Corrector) 
- Illamasqua Setting Powder
Process of Creation:
1. Ensure that all traces of makeup have been cleansed from the skin, paying particular attention to around the eyes whereby mascara/liner gets caught. 
2. Evaluate the skins needs e.g. dry/normal, oil/combination skin and choose the appropriate products. 
3. Model has dryer skin so apply a thicker layer of moisturiser onto the skin and allow to sink in for a few minutes, this is vital with matte makeup is it will make flakey areas of skin prominent. 
4. Apply a matte primer to the skin. 
5. Using a duo fibre brush apply a light layer of liquid foundation to the skin and buff. 
6. Go in with a small concealer brush and apply a red colour corrector to dark areas of the socket e.g. under the eye and inner crease. 
7. Taking a small duo fibre brush and a full coverage foundation (thiner than a concealer) apply this to any imperfections and finally over the top of the red colour corrector. 
8. Apply a light dusting of translucent powder all over the face to set the makeup and mattify the skin. 

Evaluation:
The application of sheer makeup is something that I find enjoyable as it focuses more on making the skin look fresh and naturally healthy as opposed to completely camouflaging it, something which only really looks good for photographic purposes. I found the process of creating the dewy skin more enjoyable than that of the matte skin as I find that matte skin can often look dull and dried out. Dewy skin however always look more alive and glowing and for this reason it is my more preferred makeup style. For the dewy look I chose to create a more muted glow that would be suitable for daytime wear as it was going to be worn for the rest of the day and the photo that I was working from followed a similar aesthetic, for photographic purposes this would also work nicely as the light of the camera would pick up much more of the shine than is visible to the naked eye. For runway this strobing technique would be emphasised further to be more dramatic and visible from a substantial distance under bright theatrical lighting. In regards to creating a matte makeup this is something I find slightly more difficult as mattifying the skin without it looking dried out can be difficult. Reflecting back on these photographs I realise now I should have paid more attention to the top of the forehead and bridge of the nose in particular when powdering as there is still some shine within these areas of the face. Overall I was pleased with the outcome of this technical and feel more comfortable with the creation of sheerer foundation applications that work more on enhancing than concealing the skin. 

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