Internet Ref: Evans, J. (2015). London Fashion Week S/S16 Beauty Round-Up. Available:
http://www.harpersbazaar.co.uk/beauty/beauty-shows-trends/news/g35521/london-fashion-week-s-s16-beauty-round-up/?slide=6.
Last accessed 26th Jan 2016.
Internet Ref: Milligan, L. (2015). Erdem
Spring/Summer 2016 Ready to Wear. Available:
http://www.vogue.co.uk/fashion/spring-summer-2016/ready-to-wear/erdem. Last
accessed 26th Jan 2016.
Internet Ref: Hirschmiller, F. (2015) Backstage at Erdem Spring 2016. Available: http://wwd.com/runway/spring-ready-to-wear-2016/london/erdem/backstage-beauty/. Last accessed 26th Jan 2016.
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| Val Garland for Erdem S/S 2016 http://www.vogue.co.uk/fashion/spring-summer-2016/ready-to-wear/erdem |
Designs for the Erdem S/S 2016 collection took inspiration
from the sunken look for “prairie madness” as per the established theme of the
show. The show truly embodied the theatrical with smoke, mist and a dirt
covered railway track for the runway. Based on the nineteenth century mental
condition labelled as “Prairie Madness” Erdem aimed to produce a piece that reflected
both the agoraphobic depression of the United States immigrants with the beauty
of mid century paintings of artist Andrew Wyeth. This theme was embodied
predominantly by Erdem through the theatrics of the runway which created a
sense of dramatics, but also in to the creation of the fabrics. Garments were
frayed and distressed with smokey floral prints, the gowns though beautiful
also carried a sense of danger as they embodied the misery of “Prairie
Madness”. Touches of lightness were added through the addition of soft concertina
edgings but the fabric remains predominately delicate and free floating.
These garments were then tied together with the artist designs of makeup artist Val Garland who took Erdem’s inspiration to create a sunken and disturbingly beautiful look. The designs featured perfected pale skin, sunken ochre brown eyes free from any additional makeup. The eyes were the key focal point of this makeup design with the colour palette designed to reflect the tobacco stained fabrics of the historical period. Hair stylist Anthony Turner then finished the look with long hair straightened over the eyes to somewhat shadow the facial features and messed up at the root for a well worn effect.
In regards to the makeup specifics NARS cosmetics dominated the brand front, the degree of minimalism involved within the design adds an effortless beauty to a dark theme. The aim was to achieve the polished porcelain skin tone but with the mood of a sallow eye, NARS Matt Multiple in Vientiane was washed across the eyelid and deep onto the lower lid to create a tea stained effect. Train Bleu lip pencil was then applied into the crease of the eye to deepen the effect with Het Loo lip pencil under the eye for the same purpose. The eyes are the focal point of the shows main theme design to both compliment the garments and create the mood of a nineteenth century depressive state.
These garments were then tied together with the artist designs of makeup artist Val Garland who took Erdem’s inspiration to create a sunken and disturbingly beautiful look. The designs featured perfected pale skin, sunken ochre brown eyes free from any additional makeup. The eyes were the key focal point of this makeup design with the colour palette designed to reflect the tobacco stained fabrics of the historical period. Hair stylist Anthony Turner then finished the look with long hair straightened over the eyes to somewhat shadow the facial features and messed up at the root for a well worn effect.
In regards to the makeup specifics NARS cosmetics dominated the brand front, the degree of minimalism involved within the design adds an effortless beauty to a dark theme. The aim was to achieve the polished porcelain skin tone but with the mood of a sallow eye, NARS Matt Multiple in Vientiane was washed across the eyelid and deep onto the lower lid to create a tea stained effect. Train Bleu lip pencil was then applied into the crease of the eye to deepen the effect with Het Loo lip pencil under the eye for the same purpose. The eyes are the focal point of the shows main theme design to both compliment the garments and create the mood of a nineteenth century depressive state.
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