Internet Ref: Vogue. (2015). Makeup Artist Pat McGrath on the Story Behind Givenchy’s Extraordinary Face Masks. Available: http://www.vogue.com/13334646/givenchy-spring-2016-face-masks-beauty-pat-mcgrath-backstage-models/. Last accessed 26th Jan 2016.
Internet Ref: Foley, B. (2015). Givenchy RTW Spring 2016. Available: http://wwd.com/runway/spring-ready-to-wear-2016/new-york/givenchy/review/. Last accessed 26th Jan 2016.
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The Givenchy’s
Spring/Summer show of 2016 based at the Hudson River Pier followed on from the
brands previous Fall season of heavy colours and dark Victorian romance with
the S/S collection. This season it embraced a softer yet equally strange and ornate
aesthetic. “Water to cleanse the
spirit” was the initial quote put forward to describe Givenchy’s latest
collection for S/S 2016. The show followed a main theme of tuxedo and lingerie
dress worn in a gender neutral combination of elegance. The use of soft ivory
lace, sensual couture dresses and the sharp angles of tops and tails embodied
all the romance of high class grace and extravagance. The show also featured
the reappearance of heavy facial decoration from the 2015 Fall collection, to add
to the bizarre and indulgent nature of Givenchy’s latest creations. In addition
to this was the ever apparent connection back to religious referencing and the baroque
majesty of established faiths. To enhance this theme further religious music
from across the globe, stretching over a number of religions, was featured
throughout the backstage bustle to enhance the mood preset for the models and
designers.
The shows chief makeup artist Pat McGrath created a look that harmonised with Riccardo’s ambition for the show to create a look that was both soft and strange to compliment the finely stitched, bridalesque garments. The look was created with a small amount of concealer, light layers of brown mascara, smokey brown shadow around the eye and finally the bleaching of the eyebrows to add an element of the ethereal and supernatural. The whole look upon completion was very light and natural but carrying a mystical edge. The lack of visible brow draws attention to the rusted metallic tones around the eye that in turn builds upon the regal and ornate nature of the brand. The smoked out copper tones adding a bohemian fantasy essence to the makeup. The simplicity and focus on a warm, yet radiant skin made the more elaborate beauty aspect of this collection even more dramatic. A small selection of models within this show were placed into a far more elaborate makeup look, this involved a heavy amount of jewel embellishment. Created again by the imagination of Pat McGrath it was revealed that five models had been selected for the purpose of an ornate design. Each model was embellished with handcrafted masks of beads and fabric that were applied directly to the skin. Featuring the same ivory tones seen within a large number of Givenchy’s garments throughout the show the models faces for this particular look resembled the same extravagant elegant. Out of the five models one creation instead featured gold tones and the other black metallic, to create a contrast again within the jeweled designs. The look was created by taking layers of jewel and fabric from the dresses, which were then adhered to the skin as part of a five our long process to create the final look. Something about the creation of the masks in regards to their adherence to the skin makes them appear very romantic and almost organic to the face. Although fiercely dramatic the masks are also highly feminine and delicate enough to uphold the ethereal tone of the Spring/Summer collection.
The shows chief makeup artist Pat McGrath created a look that harmonised with Riccardo’s ambition for the show to create a look that was both soft and strange to compliment the finely stitched, bridalesque garments. The look was created with a small amount of concealer, light layers of brown mascara, smokey brown shadow around the eye and finally the bleaching of the eyebrows to add an element of the ethereal and supernatural. The whole look upon completion was very light and natural but carrying a mystical edge. The lack of visible brow draws attention to the rusted metallic tones around the eye that in turn builds upon the regal and ornate nature of the brand. The smoked out copper tones adding a bohemian fantasy essence to the makeup. The simplicity and focus on a warm, yet radiant skin made the more elaborate beauty aspect of this collection even more dramatic. A small selection of models within this show were placed into a far more elaborate makeup look, this involved a heavy amount of jewel embellishment. Created again by the imagination of Pat McGrath it was revealed that five models had been selected for the purpose of an ornate design. Each model was embellished with handcrafted masks of beads and fabric that were applied directly to the skin. Featuring the same ivory tones seen within a large number of Givenchy’s garments throughout the show the models faces for this particular look resembled the same extravagant elegant. Out of the five models one creation instead featured gold tones and the other black metallic, to create a contrast again within the jeweled designs. The look was created by taking layers of jewel and fabric from the dresses, which were then adhered to the skin as part of a five our long process to create the final look. Something about the creation of the masks in regards to their adherence to the skin makes them appear very romantic and almost organic to the face. Although fiercely dramatic the masks are also highly feminine and delicate enough to uphold the ethereal tone of the Spring/Summer collection.
The main focus of this look was to create a glowing skin and lightly shadowed eye that would compliment the more severe looks in the show as well as establish the trends of the season. Skin appears to be a focal point for many designers within the Spring/Summer season with the appearance of harsh sculpting being replaced with that of elegant strobing and highlighting. The purpose of which adds a irredecant glow to the skin which allows the wearer to appear radiant and otherworldly. Upon deeper analysis it becomes more apparent how then the ornate mask like facial decorations come into play to further enhance this theme of shimmering skin. The place meant of the pearl and metallic jewels is noticeable on the high points of the face whereby strobing was created on the less elaborate models. Through doing so the reflection of light of both looks mimic one another to create a harmony between the dramatic and natural. Although this look is catwalk based it is a fine example of how extreme looks can be toned away to leave room for more wearable interpretations as seen within advertising and editorial work.
Products to recreate the look:
Products to recreate the look:
Givenchy
Mister Light Instant Light Corrective Pen
Givenchy
Ombre Couture Cream Eyeshadow in Taupe Velours and Gris Organza
Givenchy
Phenomen'Eyes Mascara in Deep Brown
Jolen
Crème Bleach
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