Internet Ref: Mower S. (2005). Riccardo Tisci Fall 2005 Ready to Wear. Available: http://www.vogue.com/fashion-shows/fall-2005-ready-to-wear/riccardo-tisci#review. Last accessed 12th Feb 2016.
Internet Ref: Soloway, S. (2010). Fashion: Riccardo Tisci . Available: http://www.wmagazine.com/fashion/2010/09/riccardo_tisci_givenchy/. Last accessed 12th Feb 2015.
Leading on from the roles of Galliano and McQueen at Givenchy, Riccardo Tisci has worked to continue to take the aesthetic of the house into a modern direction. Givenchy previously best known for its designs of the little black dress back in the 1970’s required a new tone of influence in regards to its aesthetic post retirement in 1995. A graduate from Central Saint Martins, Riccardo Tisci had but two collections to his name but was approached to step up to the role of Creative Director at Givenchy. Up keeping a degree of chic to the house Tisci worked to bring in a darker influence and level of sensuality to the brands designs. His aims, to reinforce the modern gothic as a way of empowering both men and women but also establish his own identity within the Givenchy name. In the beginning this new concept of the “goth-gamine” was heavily criticised by previous advocators of the house, however it has been in the past 5 years of his influence that the dark romanticism of his aesthetic has won the hearts of other designers. For example Pierre Berge of Yves Saint Laurent commented that the Givenchy Fall/Winter Ready to Wear Show of 2010 demonstrated how Tisci as truly “of all the designers in the world today, he is the most talented”.
Internet Ref: Soloway, S. (2010). Fashion: Riccardo Tisci . Available: http://www.wmagazine.com/fashion/2010/09/riccardo_tisci_givenchy/. Last accessed 12th Feb 2015.
Leading on from the roles of Galliano and McQueen at Givenchy, Riccardo Tisci has worked to continue to take the aesthetic of the house into a modern direction. Givenchy previously best known for its designs of the little black dress back in the 1970’s required a new tone of influence in regards to its aesthetic post retirement in 1995. A graduate from Central Saint Martins, Riccardo Tisci had but two collections to his name but was approached to step up to the role of Creative Director at Givenchy. Up keeping a degree of chic to the house Tisci worked to bring in a darker influence and level of sensuality to the brands designs. His aims, to reinforce the modern gothic as a way of empowering both men and women but also establish his own identity within the Givenchy name. In the beginning this new concept of the “goth-gamine” was heavily criticised by previous advocators of the house, however it has been in the past 5 years of his influence that the dark romanticism of his aesthetic has won the hearts of other designers. For example Pierre Berge of Yves Saint Laurent commented that the Givenchy Fall/Winter Ready to Wear Show of 2010 demonstrated how Tisci as truly “of all the designers in the world today, he is the most talented”.
Consistency is an upmost occupation of the Givenchy
aesthetic with the brand working solely to a monochromatic colour scheme of
blacks, white, wash tones and gold. This very fixation on the darker tones lead
to many refereeing to the tones as the “Tisci Black” whereby Riccardo
reinforces that “I
didn’t invent black color, but people related so much black to me, which is a
very beautiful thing”. This preoccupation with the modern gothic ideology has
consequently lead to an infiltration of darker concepts across the fashion industry
as a whole. The new Givenchy marks a house alongside others such as McQueen, to
test the boundaries of fashion. Embracing a element of modern gothic and
historically established sophistication.
http://www.vogue.com/fashion-shows/fall-2005-ready-to-wear
/riccardo-tisci/slideshow/collection#25
Riccardo’ Tisci’s passion for the dark was something
established long before his days at Givenchy, demonstrating the sheer degree of
personal identity he brought forward into the brand. Tisci’s first appearance within that of high
fashion and second released collection was during the 2005 Milan Ready to Wear
Fall shows. Within a derelict warehouse filled with candle light and smoke
Tisci created an iconic show that set the stage for his career aesthetic with dark
tones of religious iconography. Below that of a wooden crucifixion cross walked
models dressed head to toe in sweeping black garments accompanied by distressed
leathers and beads. The whole show resembled heavily the same iconography of a
Catholic funeral procession and truly shocked audiences at Milan Fashion Week. His taste for refined elegance and
appreciation of the colour black is evidently what grabbed the interest of
Hubert de Givenchy to appoint him as Creative Director. Encouraging his
personal style to create a new identity for the house regardless of criticisms
and those opposed to the concept of change.
No comments:
Post a Comment