Tuesday, 9 February 2016

Givenchy Menswear/Couture Show Spring/Summer 2016

Internet Ref: Givenchy. (2016). Givenchy | Fall Winter 2016 Mens Show Collection.Available: https://www.givenchy.com/en/collection-men-fall-winter-2016-show-collection/inspiration. Last accessed 9th Feb 2016.
https://www.givenchy.com/en//couture-details-16/
Little information could be found regarding the concepts for the Couture elements of this seasons Fall/Winter Menswear 2016/17 collection, perhaps this was due to the high level of disinterest from some critics towards the show within which the garments were featured. According to the Givenchy review the collection aimed to capture a sense of freedom with heavy influences of 'Club Kid' culture, heavy metal and Berlin festivals. This ideology was then translated into the designs for the twelve featured haute couture garments that were embodied within the stream of male models. This sense of bold freshness was shared through subtle features in the makeup that married the setting together without of the couture gowns, and in turn reflected the marriage between the gowns and male garments.
Traditionally within haute couture shows around 50 garments will be shown for each category, including day and night looks. Each of these garments will be hand sewn and fitted to the model of choice to express the ultimate in fine fashion creation. This was not the case however for Riccardo Tisci who took Givenchy against the grain demonstrating only 12 garments imbedded within the Menswear show. These garments featured an array of crystal lined coats, snakeskin patchwork and velvet embellishment but traditional ornate tailoring to continue to fit with the classic Givenchy aesthetic. These were then placed alongside leather jackets with fur decor to reintroduce the rock and roll elements that Tisci is so well known for, which in addition married together the couture gowns with that of the urban themed menswear. By combining couture and coats there was a newer, more dramatic contrast established which in turn made the use of the sheer, nude fabric and black lace more seductive with lingerie connotations. Due to the shows focus on male garments, the couture gowns were then featured in a separate fashion film released to the official website. This film acted on  exhibiting the finer details of the dresses and capturing the textures that would be lost under the lighting of the runway. Like many fashion films the artful aesthetic follows on from the ideology of the show and scenes are created through the focus on garment texture which contrasted against the composition of models who stand within a cold, concrete backdrop. Differences arise here in regards to the subject of the show which apparently displayed freedom through its choice of pink surroundings, against that of the films industrial setting that carries more constricting emotions. Allegedly the use of this concrete background links back to the urban environments that inspired the clothing for the menswear Fall collection. In addition by featuring a dull surrounding it makes the details and colours of the dresses more vibrant as they would previously have been dulled out against the neon pink. 
The main connection established between the shows design and couture gowns came through within the makeup design, whereby colours in the vibrant pink surroundings were adapted to a bold eye look. The neon pink setting of the show stood for an ideology of expression of freedom which seemed somewhat odd against the darker concept for the clothing used within the show itself. The use of this bold pink is visible within the show however has been diluted as a result of the footage, predominant the reasoning for this may be to separate the film from the concept of the show. Within the runway design the use of the electric pink eye acted as a marriage between the garments and the show space, an ideology not required for the texture focus of the film. 

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